Loris era mio papà. Era un Capo Commissario della Costa Crociere. E' sempre stato un amante della buona cucina ed un ottimo chef. Le sue presentazioni di menù e cibi sono famose così come le mangiate che organizzava.
Spaghetti alle acciughe e mollica di pane, la ricetta. E’ iniziata la stagione delle acciughe, sono ancora piccole per la salatura ma si possono usare per molti piatti semplici e gustosi.
Mi è venuta in mente una ricetta che forse ho imparato dai molti chef meridionali che hanno influenzato positivamente i miei gusti e la mia cucina e di cui adesso vi faccio partecipi. Se avete qualche idea o commento vi invito ad aggiunfere un comment oppure ad andare nella parte bassa del sito per leggere cosa hanno scritto gli altri visitatori.
Per 4 persone per la salsa ho usato:
4 etti di acciughe fresche che ho pulito e disliscato
6 filetti di acciuga salata
uno spicchio d’aglio
olio extra vergine d’oliva
origano e mollica di pane*.
Nell’olio ho fatto soffriggere l’aglio tritato assieme ai filetti di acciuga salata (e peperoncino per chi lo apprezza). Ho sfumato con poco vino bianco e poi ho aggiunto le acciughe fresche che devono cuocere soltanto per pochi minuti e una presina di origano secco.
La salsa è pronta.
Ho fatto cuocere 350 grammi circa di spaghetti che ho poi fatto saltare nella salsa. Alla fine ho cosparso con la mollica di pane*. Un piatto delizioso, semplice e saporito.
* La mollica di pane è diversa dal pane grattugiato. E’ più grossolana ed io la ottengo grattugiando a mano il pane e facendolo poi saltare in padella antiaderente senza olio per asciugarlo leggermente.
Adesso guarda il piatto finito a dimmi cosa ne pensi!
Spaghetti with anchovies and breadcrumbs, the recipe – Spaghetti aux anchois et chapelure, la recette – Espaguetis con anchoas y pan rallado, la receta – Espaguete com anchovas e pão ralado, a receita – Spaghetti mit Sardellen und Paniermehl, das Rezept – Spaghetti với cá cơm và vụn bánh mì, công thức – 意大利面配凤尾鱼和面包屑，食谱 – アンチョビとブレッドクラムのスパゲッティ、レシピ
Tagliatelle with raw ham and peas, a simple and tasty dish, especially during the fresh pea season.
Recipe for 4 people.
In a base of extra virgin olive oil, fry half an onion cut into coarse strips, I added one hundred and twenty grams of ham cut into strips and I blended with a little white wine. Separately I boiled for a few minutes about 800 grams of fresh peas (the cooking time varies depending on their size) and I added them to the onion and raw ham base. Once the sauce was mixed I let it cool and then I added about 80 grams of fresh cream, mixing everything together. At this point I put the tagliatelle cooked al dente in the pan, I added a little cooking water and I sautéed them. To complete the dish I sprinkled with grated parmesan cheese.
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Tagliatelle with ham and peas, the recipe – Tagliatelles au jambon et petits pois, la recette – Tagliatelle con jamón y guisantes, la receta – Tagliatelle com presunto e ervilhas, a receita – Tagliatelle mit Schinken und Erbsen, das Rezept – Công thức Tagliatelle với giăm bông và đậu Hà Lan
Taglierini paglia e fieno ai carciofi. Oggi ho pensato di fare per me un piatto che preparava un mio amico e grande Chef di origini siciliane ma cresciuto in Liguria: taglierini paglia e fieno ai carciofi.
Per persona si utilizza un bel carciofo, che si pulisce con attenzione utilizzando anche il gambo, si taglia a fettine e si tiene immerso in acqua con qualche goccia di limone. Poi si immerge per 3 minuti circa in acqua bollente salata (sbiancatura). Si scola e si lascia raffreddare. Intanto si prepara un fondo con cipolla tritata, uno spicchio d’aglio in camicia e olio extra vergine. Una volta che il fondo è pronto si aggiunge il carciofo tagliato a fettine e si lascia soffriggere a fuoco alto per fargli perdere l’acqua rimasta dopo la sbiancatura e si bagna con poco vino bianco. Una volta che il vino è evaporato si aggiunge il pomodoro passato e li lascia cuocere lentamente aggiungendo un po’ d’acqua di cottura del carciofo se necessario per una ventina di minuti o anche più, se necessario.
Una volta pronta questa salsa si cuociono i taglierini e si fanno saltare in padella con la salsa di carciofo e, messi sul piatto, si aggiunge una presa di origano. Buon appetito.
Una variante di questa ricetta è fatta senza pomodoro, utilizzando tagliatelle più grandi con l’aggiunta di besciamella e gratinando al forno in una pirofila.
Una volta che i carciofi sbiancati, si fanno saltare nel fondo di cipolla e aglio, si bagnano con il vino. Una volta che il vino è evaporato si lasciano cuocere lentamente aggiungendo acqua di cottura se necessario. Si aggiungono poi le tagliatelle (cotte molto al dente) e si fanno saltare affinché si insaporiscano aggiungendo un poco di grana grattugiato. Si abbassa la temperatura e, una volta che il tutto sarà raffreddato , si aggiunge la besciamella (in modo misurato e senza esagerare) si mescola bene il tutto e si mette in una pirofila unta con olio extra vergine. Si cosparge con un po’ di pane grattugiato e si inforna a forno caldo a 180 gradi.
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Straw and hay tagliolini (white and green) with artichokes, the recipe – Tagliolini de paille et foin (blancs et verts) aux artichauts, la recette – Tagliolini de paja y heno (blancos y verdes) con alcachofas, la receta – Tagliolini de palha e feno (branco e verde) com alcachofra, a receita – Tagliolini aus Stroh und Heu (weiß und grün) mit Artischocken, das Rezept – Tagliolini rơm và cỏ khô (trắng và xanh) với atisô, công thức – 稻草和干草意大利面（白色和绿色）配洋蓟，食谱 – わらと干し草のタリオリーニ（白と緑）とアーティチョークのレシピ
Good morning everyone. This morning I bought a small lobster, two nice squids and about a kilo of muscles that I initially wanted to fill together with the squids. Later I opened a muscle and I realized that the mollusc inside was very small and I changed my mind about using it.
I cleaned and skinned the squid well and cleaned the muscles carefully, I opened them with a drop of water and I put them aside and filtered their liquid.
First I prepared the lobster, I washed it well under cold water, cut it in half lengthwise and put it in a pan with a little oil and a clove of garlic. Once it had heated up and was starting to turn red, I added a little rum and left it to cook for another couple of minutes. Then I took one of the two tufts and the fins of the squid, I cut them into pieces and put them to cook in a little oil, once heated I wet them with a little white wine and left them to cook for a few minutes. Once it had cooled down I cleaned the lobster of all its shell leaving the pulp to which I then added the cooked squid pieces. I left everything aside for the risotto.
For the squid filling, I boiled some lettuce leaves, which I roughly chopped, then added to a container a whole egg, a little grated Parmesan, a little breadcrumbs soaked in milk and then squeezed, the rest of the squid tentacles and fins chopped finely, salt and pepper.
With this filling I carefully stuffed the calamari, closed them with a toothpick and made a few holes in them so that, during cooking, the humidity contained in the filling and in the pieces of calamari could evaporate.
I then put the calamari in a pan with a little oil and a clove of garlic and let them heat up. I then wet them with white wine and, once it evaporated, I added a good part of the cooking liquid (filtered) of the muscles, a little tomato puree and cooked slowly with the pan closed for an hour. Five minutes before turning off the heat, I added the shelled muscles.
For the risotto I did as usual: I heated the arborio rice in a saucepan with oil and a little chopped onion, I moistened with a little wine and added the lobster and the pieces of squid that I had heated beforehand. I added a little more tomato puree and covered everything with the cooking liquid of the mussels and a little water. I cooked the risotto slowly for about twenty minutes, adding hot water if it dried out too much and at the end I stirred it with a little olive oil. Once on the serving dish I added chopped parsley and served.
Everything was appreciated as I hope the photos of the dishes taken by the home photographer, Luca, are appreciated:
Stuffed squid and seafood risotto, the recipe – Encornets farcis et risotto aux fruits de mer, la recette – Calamares rellenos y risotto de marisco, la receta – Risoto de Lulas Recheadas e Frutos do Mar, a receita – Gefülltes Risotto mit Tintenfisch und Meeresfrüchten, das Rezept – Mực nhồi và risotto hải sản, công thức – 酿鱿鱼和海鲜烩饭，食谱 – イカとシーフードの詰め物のリゾット、レシピ
Navone cabbage and how to prepare it, the recipe. The other day my friend Giulio, an expert horticulturist and attentive connoisseur of products from our Ligurian land, gave me a Navone cabbage, a large tuber of the cabbage family whose large root is eaten. This vegetable should not be confused with kohlrabi or celeriac or Verona celery. It resembles the latter even if it is more elongated but it is something else. Honestly I have seen many types of roots and tubers all over the world but I don't remember ever having seen a Navone cabbage before. My friend told me that this root has a sweetish taste and before trying to cook it, I boiled a slice and tasted it. Cooked, it is very white in color, compact, with a delicate and slightly sweetish taste.
I sliced this root into slices about half a centimeter thick and boiled them in hot salted water for a few minutes.
Then I prepared a light and rather liquid béchamel and placed a layer of slices of turnip on the bottom of a baking pan, greased with olive oil, I covered them with a little of this béchamel and a light sprinkling of grated parmesan. I made a second layer and added, after the béchamel and the parmesan, a further sprinkling of grated bread. Finally I added a little olive oil and baked at 180° for about twenty minutes. This is an excellent side dish but with the addition of a little mozzarella in cubes on top of each layer, it can become an excellent single dish and a way to revalue ancient, simple and genuine products.
Have you ever heard of it? Add your own comment or go to the bottom of the site to read what other visitors have written.
Cabbage of Navone quality, the recipe – Chou de qualité Navone, la recette – Repollo de calidad Navone, la receta – Couve de qualidade Navone, a receita – Kohl in Navone-Qualität, das Rezept – Bắp cải chất lượng Navone, công thức – Navone 品质的卷心菜，食谱 – Navone品質のキャベツ、レシピ
Carbonara leggera di carciofi, profumata con curcuma. Questa mattina mi è venuta voglia di mangiare una carbonara… ma sono a dieta e così ne ho preparato una dietetica che volendo puó diventare un piatto unico per tutta la famiglia.
Ingredients for 4 people: – 3 bei carciofi teneri, sbollentati e saltati in padella con 30 grammi d’olio extra vergine con 1 spicchio d’aglio; – per la salsa: 3 uova (due intere ed un rosso), due cucchiai di latte, due cucchiai di grana grattugiato, curcuma, sale e pepe.
Ho pulito 3 bei carciofi, gambi compresi e li ho lasciati a bagno per qualche minuto in acqua fredda con limone. Poi li ho messi a cuocere in acqua bollente, salata e sempre con aggiunta di succo di limone. Una volta cotti li ho lasciati a raffreddare. Ho poi preparato la base della carbonara sbattendo due uova intere ed un rosso, poco latte, un paio di cucchiai di formaggio grana grattugiato ed ho aggiunto una bella spolverata di curcuma macinata.
Ho messo a bollire 300 grammi di penne integrali in acqua salata e a parte ho fatto saltare a fuoco vivo i carciofi, affettati abbastanza fini, con poco olio extra vergine, uno spicchio d’aglio schiacciato e poco sale grosso, facendoli insaporire per bene e aggiungendo acqua se necessario. Una volta cotta la pasta la ho saltata con i carciofi facendola insaporire per bene. Alla fine, spento il fuoco, ho messo nella padella la base fatta con le uova e gli altri ingredienti che avevo preparato in precedenza, mescolando bene e servendo la carbonara con una leggera macinata di pepe nero.
The real Pasqualina cake of my house, the recipe. The Pasqualina cake is a typical Ligurian dish that we make quite often in my house and that my wife Emmi makes perfectly, perhaps not following the recipe perfectly but in a way that we (and our guests) like very much. It is a vegetarian dish that was once made for Good Friday, which was eaten that day because it was vegetarian but which could be taken on a trip to the countryside or to the seaside that, weather permitting, was done on Easter Monday. Nowadays this cake is rightfully part of the great series of Ligurian cakes that are made and eaten throughout the year.
I also have a wonderful memory of this dish from many years ago: the Pasqualina cake from Marcenaro's shop, but regarding the specialties of this great shop, so many memories are coming to mind that it would be better if I talked about it on another occasion... but I promise I will.
Unfortunately I have never seen Mr. Marcenaro prepare the Easter cake so you will have to settle for reading how we make it at home.
First of all, we need to talk about the puff pastry: once it was said that the layers of the puff pastry should be 33, like the years of Christ, but we do something much simpler, using a dough made with flour, a little olive oil, water, a pinch of brewer's yeast (dissolved in water) and a pinch of salt. To do it even faster, you can also use a puff pastry from the supermarket, but it is better to choose one of the best quality. At home, however, we make the dough ourselves first and let it rest for the entire time dedicated to preparing the dough.
The ingredients are always the same but it is important that the vegetables are very fresh and always in season. Swiss chard is available all year round but during the Easter period it would be a shame not to use, in addition to Swiss chard, artichokes and, if possible, borage.
After boiling the vegetables separately, we cut them quite finely and the artichokes more coarsely, then sauté everything in olive oil with sage and a clove of garlic. Afterwards, once the vegetables have cooled, we mix them with ricotta, beaten eggs, and grated parmesan cheese. We check that the mixture is salty and add a pinch of pepper.
Stendiamo poi la sfoglia su di un tegame da forno oliato, copriamo con il nostro impasto (a seconda della quantità la torta diventerà più alta, preferibile almeno tre centimetri), facciamo alcuni piccoli avvallamenti dentro ognuno dei quali rompiamo un uovo, facendo attenzione a non rompere il rosso… l’idea sarebbe che ad ogni bella fetta corrispondesse anche un uovo. Copriamo con ancora almeno due o tre strati di sfoglia, i più sottili possibile.
Una volta chiusa la torta faremo al suo contorno una piccola treccia di pasta arrotolata e finalmente spennelleremo tutto con uovo sbattuto allungato leggermente con acqua. Un tocco di classe sarebbe mettere una cannuccia in un buchetto sotto la sfoglia di pasta più in alto e soffiare con delicatezza in modo che questa sfoglia gonfi e dia un aspetto più importante alla torta. Faremo poi cuocere il tutto a 180° finché la Pasqualina non prenderà un bel colore ambrato.
Codfish Gomes de Sa, the recipe. When I talk about cod, I think of many years ago, when ships made their last scheduled trips to South America. It was another world, ships alternated periods of cruises with what would unfortunately remain the last scheduled trips. The last trips for those who were the last classic emigrants, poor people who left everything little they had to reach the mirage of a distant, rich land that still offered opportunities. In addition to the small groups of Italian and Spanish emigrants, the few Central Europeans, who mostly went to reunite with their families, the Portuguese were the vast majority. Towards the early 1970s, the mirages of Brazil and Argentina were fading and the flow of emigrants was directed towards Venezuela, a very rich land, where the metal coins were still all silver… Entire families embarked in Funchal, on the island of Madeira, then very poor but much more beautiful and real than today. The island lost thousands of poor laborers, fishermen, men without culture but who exuded strength, iron will and great respect for others. Incidentally, not many years later, most of these emigrants returned home with money, culture and maintaining the same iron willpower that they reinvested in their island, thus collaborating in its rebirth. This long preamble is to remember that at that time, by emigration law, on ships it was mandatory to have, in addition to the Italian staff, a certain number of cooks, waiters, a doctor and a government commissioner of the various nationalities of the emigrants who had to look after them according to their needs. While the doctors and the government commissioner lived the good life on board, the cooks and waiters were very busy preparing dishes that could meet the habits of the emigrants. I, intrigued by what was cooked by these cooks, when I had the time and the opportunity, went to the kitchen to see how these dishes were prepared. One of the classic products used in Portuguese cuisine, which is part of its vast tradition, is cod and with this fish many dishes are prepared that are part of the great and excellent cuisine of this wonderful land. Portugal has an extraordinary cuisine: oils, wines, cheeses, spirits and extraordinary food products that unfortunately do not have the resonance of the Italian, French and Spanish ones which they have nothing to envy. Returning to cod, that is, salted cod, the Portuguese do not depend on Norway like all the other countries but they have a great tradition with fishing boats that go to fish these extraordinary fish directly in the large schools of the north and then salt them directly on board. Unfortunately I can't help but digress and I could continue talking about Portuguese cuisine for who knows how long but now I want to return to this classic preparation of "Baccalà à la Gomes de Sa" simplifying it a bit, as I like to do.
The recipe
Ingredients for 4 people:
a nice fillet of soaked cod, four large potatoes, two onions, a dry bread roll, two boiled eggs, chopped parsley, black olives and olive oil.
First of all I left the cod to soak the night before, changing the water several times to remove as much salt as possible. In the morning I cut some potatoes into slices of about 1 cm and put them to boil in unsalted water. Once the potatoes were almost cooked I took them out of the water and put the same boiling water in a dish where I had placed the cod, leaving it there for a few minutes to blanch it but without cooking it. I cut the onion into thin slices and fried them over low heat. Finally I prepared the baking dish, wetting it with a little oil, placing a layer of potatoes on the bottom, leaving a few slices aside, and then I placed the cod broken into pieces and the fried and stewed onion on top. I moistened with a drizzle of oil. Then I roughly chopped the remaining potatoes a little, crumbled the dry bread and the hard-boiled egg and mixed these ingredients, adding the chopped parsley, the black olives and a little more oil.
I covered the baking dish with this breading and put it in a hot oven at 180 degrees for 20 minutes, using the grill for the last five. And here is the finished dish, enjoy your meal!
Cod prepared Gomes de Sa style, the recipe – Morue préparée Gomes de Sa, la recette – Bacalao preparado Gomes de Sa, la receta – Bacalhau preparado Gomes de Sá, a receita – Kabeljau zubereitet Gomes de Sa, das Rezept – Cá tuyết đã chuẩn bị Gomes de Sa, công thức
Stockfish has a long history and now is not the time to tell you about it because over the years it has become a novel… I have been to the Lofoten Islands in Norway many times and have visited many places where cod is produced and stored, which then becomes stockfish. Here in the first hinterland, we have many trattorias that prepare boiled stockfish on Fridays and the customers are always very numerous. It must be said that preparing boiled stockfish is very easy but one of the reasons why many women do not like to cook it at home is due to the bad smell that comes from cooking and that then spreads throughout the house. I use a very simple system to not have bad smells in the house and I want to tell you how I do it.
First of all, the night before, I soak a couple of handfuls of beans in cold water and boil them the next morning together with the potatoes with their skins: I calculate a nice potato and a half per person. Then I steam the stockfish in the pressure cooker. I put two or three fingers of water on the bottom of the pot to which I add salt, some bay leaves and a celery stalk. At this point I put the stockfish in a special cage that fits into the pot without the fish touching the water and I add a whole onion from which I have removed the peel. If the stockfish I bought is wet, very wet, I cook it calculating 10 minutes after the first whistle of the pot that indicates that the internal pressure is optimal. After waiting these 10 minutes, I remove the pot from the heat and take it into the garden (or onto the terrace) to let all the steam out of the house and without the bad smell spreading throughout the house. Once I return home I clean the stockfish, peel the potatoes and add the beans. Before seasoning everything with Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, I add my sauce that I prepared during the 10 minutes of cooking the fish.
Stockfish sauce:
In a mortar and pestle (you can also use an immersion blender), crush a few pine nuts, a clove of garlic without the core and a couple of anchovy fillets.
I'll tell you some funny anecdotes on another occasion.
I attach a photo (taken by me) of a house in Lofoten with stockfish drying.
Stockfish boiled by starred chef Loris, the recipe – Stockfish bouilli par le chef étoilé Loris, la recette – Bacalao hervido por el chef estrellado Loris, la receta – Bacalhau cozido pelo chef estrelado Loris, a receita – Stockfisch gekocht von Sternekoch Loris, das Rezept – Cá kho do đầu bếp Loris đóng vai chính, công thức – 明星大厨 Loris 亲手烹制的鳕鱼，食谱 – スターシェフのロリスが煮込んだストックフィッシュ、レシピ
Tripe. Like many simple dishes, tripe is eaten all over the world and each country has multiple recipes for its preparation. When I could, I tasted tripe in all the countries I visited, and there are many, but I think the strangest way I ever tasted it was in Hong Kong. During the period of about nine months that I was lucky enough to spend on a ship operating in the Far East, when I had the chance, I tried local dishes, especially those of Hong Kong where the restaurants that serve typical dishes very quickly at very low prices are countless. I began to appreciate oriental cuisine on the ship, tasting the dishes of the kitchen for the crew where there are chefs able to satisfy the dietary needs of the different ethnic, religious and cultural groups of the various members of the staff. These curiosities of mine had a great answer when I met a great Chinese Chef on a ship who alternated the preparation of excellent Chinese dishes with the classic offering of typical Italian cuisine made by another excellent Italian Chef. In Hong Kong, as in almost all of Asia, you can eat anything at any time and I took advantage of every half hour to be able to go out and try some dishes. Of course I didn't go out alone but with a Chinese colleague of mine who guided me in choosing the dishes after describing their composition and, returning to tripe, which is consumed in abundance also in Chinese cuisine, I was intrigued by a soup of various vegetables with the classic rice "noodles", enriched by abundant pieces of caramelized tripe. This tripe was so good that I asked for a double portion in the cup...
As in all regions of Italy, even in Liguria, tripe is part of the poor cuisine and in our house, apart from my son, we all eat it with pleasure. I must say that tripe, whether it is parmigiana, Milanese, Tuscan, etc., is basically prepared in the same way and therefore I will describe to you how we prepare it in my house.
First of all I get the best quality tripe possible from a trusted butcher or, better, from a tripe shop in Chiavari, the only one left and which has a very ancient tradition. For four people I have about a kilo of mixed tripe prepared… I know it's a lot but you have to remember that the tripe you buy has already undergone pre-cooking, even if short, and that it contains a lot of water.
I then make a fairly coarse base with onion, celery, carrot and a clove of garlic, I soak a few dried mushrooms and prepare separately four nice potatoes, a little tomato paste, a few Taggiasca olives, a handful of pine nuts. On a stove I heat up a little meat broth (or I do it directly with a little vegetables).
After having gently fried the bottom in extra virgin olive oil (not a lot) I add the very finely chopped tripe, add a little salt and let all the water in them come out. After this operation you will realize that, after all, the kilo of tripe will have reduced a lot... but don't worry because the potatoes will still need to be added...
Once the tripe has been well flavored, I bathe it with a little white wine and let it evaporate. Then I add a little hot broth, the tomato paste, the soaked and chopped dried mushrooms, the olives, the pine nuts and the potatoes cut into large cubes. I leave it to cook over a moderate heat, checking the cooking and adding broth if necessary. The tripe will be ready when the potatoes are cooked. Before serving, I add a little chopped parsley. At the table, for those who like, you can add grated cheese.
The photo was taken from the site Pixabay which offers free images online.
