Lucadea.com

24 March 201619 March 2025

Codfish Gomes de Sa, the recipe

Codfish Gomes de Sa, the recipe.
When I talk about cod, I think of many years ago, when ships made their last scheduled trips to South America. It was another world, ships alternated periods of cruises with what would unfortunately remain the last scheduled trips. The last trips for those who were the last classic emigrants, poor people who left everything little they had to reach the mirage of a distant, rich land that still offered opportunities. In addition to the small groups of Italian and Spanish emigrants, the few Central Europeans, who mostly went to reunite with their families, the Portuguese were the vast majority. Towards the early 1970s, the mirages of Brazil and Argentina were fading and the flow of emigrants was directed towards Venezuela, a very rich land, where the metal coins were still all silver… Entire families embarked in Funchal, on the island of Madeira, then very poor but much more beautiful and real than today. The island lost thousands of poor laborers, fishermen, men without culture but who exuded strength, iron will and great respect for others. Incidentally, not many years later, most of these emigrants returned home with money, culture and maintaining the same iron willpower that they reinvested in their island, thus collaborating in its rebirth.
This long preamble is to remember that at that time, by emigration law, on ships it was mandatory to have, in addition to the Italian staff, a certain number of cooks, waiters, a doctor and a government commissioner of the various nationalities of the emigrants who had to look after them according to their needs. While the doctors and the government commissioner lived the good life on board, the cooks and waiters were very busy preparing dishes that could meet the habits of the emigrants. I, intrigued by what was cooked by these cooks, when I had the time and the opportunity, went to the kitchen to see how these dishes were prepared. One of the classic products used in Portuguese cuisine, which is part of its vast tradition, is cod and with this fish many dishes are prepared that are part of the great and excellent cuisine of this wonderful land. Portugal has an extraordinary cuisine: oils, wines, cheeses, spirits and extraordinary food products that unfortunately do not have the resonance of the Italian, French and Spanish ones which they have nothing to envy. Returning to cod, that is, salted cod, the Portuguese do not depend on Norway like all the other countries but they have a great tradition with fishing boats that go to fish these extraordinary fish directly in the large schools of the north and then salt them directly on board. Unfortunately I can't help but digress and I could continue talking about Portuguese cuisine for who knows how long but now I want to return to this classic preparation of "Baccalà à la Gomes de Sa" simplifying it a bit, as I like to do.

The recipe

Ingredients for 4 people:

a nice fillet of soaked cod, four large potatoes, two onions, a dry bread roll, two boiled eggs, chopped parsley, black olives and olive oil.

First of all I left the cod to soak the night before, changing the water several times to remove as much salt as possible. In the morning I cut some potatoes into slices of about 1 cm and put them to boil in unsalted water. Once the potatoes were almost cooked I took them out of the water and put the same boiling water in a dish where I had placed the cod, leaving it there for a few minutes to blanch it but without cooking it.
I cut the onion into thin slices and fried them over low heat. Finally I prepared the baking dish, wetting it with a little oil, placing a layer of potatoes on the bottom, leaving a few slices aside, and then I placed the cod broken into pieces and the fried and stewed onion on top. I moistened with a drizzle of oil. Then I roughly chopped the remaining potatoes a little, crumbled the dry bread and the hard-boiled egg and mixed these ingredients, adding the chopped parsley, the black olives and a little more oil.

I covered the baking dish with this breading and put it in a hot oven at 180 degrees for 20 minutes, using the grill for the last five.
And here is the finished dish, enjoy your meal!

Cod prepared Gomes de Sa style, the recipe – Morue préparée Gomes de Sa, la recette – Bacalao preparado Gomes de Sa, la receta – Bacalhau preparado Gomes de Sá, a receita – Kabeljau zubereitet Gomes de Sa, das Rezept – Cá tuyết đã chuẩn bị Gomes de Sa, công thức

20 March 201613 July 2024

Boiled stockfish by starred chef Loris, the recipe

Stockfish has a long history and now is not the time to tell you about it because over the years it has become a novel…
I have been to the Lofoten Islands in Norway many times and have visited many places where cod is produced and stored, which then becomes stockfish.
Here in the first hinterland, we have many trattorias that prepare boiled stockfish on Fridays and the customers are always very numerous.
It must be said that preparing boiled stockfish is very easy but one of the reasons why many women do not like to cook it at home is due to the bad smell that comes from cooking and that then spreads throughout the house. I use a very simple system to not have bad smells in the house and I want to tell you how I do it.

First of all, the night before, I soak a couple of handfuls of beans in cold water and boil them the next morning together with the potatoes with their skins: I calculate a nice potato and a half per person. Then I steam the stockfish in the pressure cooker. I put two or three fingers of water on the bottom of the pot to which I add salt, some bay leaves and a celery stalk. At this point I put the stockfish in a special cage that fits into the pot without the fish touching the water and I add a whole onion from which I have removed the peel.
If the stockfish I bought is wet, very wet, I cook it calculating 10 minutes after the first whistle of the pot that indicates that the internal pressure is optimal. After waiting these 10 minutes, I remove the pot from the heat and take it into the garden (or onto the terrace) to let all the steam out of the house and without the bad smell spreading throughout the house. Once I return home I clean the stockfish, peel the potatoes and add the beans. Before seasoning everything with Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, I add my sauce that I prepared during the 10 minutes of cooking the fish.

Stockfish sauce:

In a mortar and pestle (you can also use an immersion blender), crush a few pine nuts, a clove of garlic without the core and a couple of anchovy fillets.

I'll tell you some funny anecdotes on another occasion.

I attach a photo (taken by me) of a house in Lofoten with stockfish drying.

Stockfish boiled by starred chef Loris, the recipe – Stockfish bouilli par le chef étoilé Loris, la recette – Bacalao hervido por el chef estrellado Loris, la receta – Bacalhau cozido pelo chef estrelado Loris, a receita – Stockfisch gekocht von Sternekoch Loris, das Rezept – Cá kho do đầu bếp Loris đóng vai chính, công thức – 明星大厨 Loris 亲手烹制的鳕鱼，食谱 – スターシェフのロリスが煮込んだストックフィッシュ、レシピ

17 March 201626 July 2024

Tripe, the recipe

Tripe.
Like many simple dishes, tripe is eaten all over the world and each country has multiple recipes for its preparation. When I could, I tasted tripe in all the countries I visited, and there are many, but I think the strangest way I ever tasted it was in Hong Kong. During the period of about nine months that I was lucky enough to spend on a ship operating in the Far East, when I had the chance, I tried local dishes, especially those of Hong Kong where the restaurants that serve typical dishes very quickly at very low prices are countless. I began to appreciate oriental cuisine on the ship, tasting the dishes of the kitchen for the crew where there are chefs able to satisfy the dietary needs of the different ethnic, religious and cultural groups of the various members of the staff. These curiosities of mine had a great answer when I met a great Chinese Chef on a ship who alternated the preparation of excellent Chinese dishes with the classic offering of typical Italian cuisine made by another excellent Italian Chef. In Hong Kong, as in almost all of Asia, you can eat anything at any time and I took advantage of every half hour to be able to go out and try some dishes. Of course I didn't go out alone but with a Chinese colleague of mine who guided me in choosing the dishes after describing their composition and, returning to tripe, which is consumed in abundance also in Chinese cuisine, I was intrigued by a soup of various vegetables with the classic rice "noodles", enriched by abundant pieces of caramelized tripe. This tripe was so good that I asked for a double portion in the cup...

As in all regions of Italy, even in Liguria, tripe is part of the poor cuisine and in our house, apart from my son, we all eat it with pleasure. I must say that tripe, whether it is parmigiana, Milanese, Tuscan, etc., is basically prepared in the same way and therefore I will describe to you how we prepare it in my house.

First of all I get the best quality tripe possible from a trusted butcher or, better, from a tripe shop in Chiavari, the only one left and which has a very ancient tradition. For four people I have about a kilo of mixed tripe prepared… I know it's a lot but you have to remember that the tripe you buy has already undergone pre-cooking, even if short, and that it contains a lot of water.

I then make a fairly coarse base with onion, celery, carrot and a clove of garlic, I soak a few dried mushrooms and prepare separately four nice potatoes, a little tomato paste, a few Taggiasca olives, a handful of pine nuts. On a stove I heat up a little meat broth (or I do it directly with a little vegetables).

After having gently fried the bottom in extra virgin olive oil (not a lot) I add the very finely chopped tripe, add a little salt and let all the water in them come out. After this operation you will realize that, after all, the kilo of tripe will have reduced a lot... but don't worry because the potatoes will still need to be added...

Once the tripe has been well flavored, I bathe it with a little white wine and let it evaporate. Then I add a little hot broth, the tomato paste, the soaked and chopped dried mushrooms, the olives, the pine nuts and the potatoes cut into large cubes. I leave it to cook over a moderate heat, checking the cooking and adding broth if necessary. The tripe will be ready when the potatoes are cooked. Before serving, I add a little chopped parsley. At the table, for those who like, you can add grated cheese.

The photo was taken from the site Pixabay which offers free images online.

17 March 201628 September 2024

Wild boar ragù my way, the recipe

Wild boar ragù my way.
This year wild boar hunting has been very abundant and hundreds of these animals have been killed. So it happened that a friend, with his fridge now very full, gave me a nice piece of fresh meat from this animal.
I love the red meat of this animal but I don't like the wild flavour that often accompanies it once cooked. Therefore, contrary to what is usually done, after cutting the meat into cubes I marinated it overnight in plenty of white wine, without adding spices or aromatic herbs. In the morning I drained the wine completely in the sink and let the meat rest outside the fridge for an hour. In the meantime I prepared a mixture of onion, aromatic herbs and a little garlic and I soaked some pieces of dried mushrooms. I then floured the meat and fried it in a pan with a little extra virgin olive oil to allow it to expel all the water it contains. When the meat was well browned and dry, I removed it from the pan and put it in a large saucepan where I sautéed the onion, herbs and chopped dried mushrooms in plenty of extra virgin olive oil. Then I moistened everything with more white wine and, once evaporated, I added the tomato puree and left to cook for at least an hour on low heat. When the meat was cooked enough and became nice and tender, I finely chopped about half of it and added it to the sauce, cooking until everything was well blended.

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The recipe in my own way to prepare tagliatelle with wild boar sauce at home – La recette à ma façon pour préparer des tagliatelles à la sauce de sanglier à la maison – La receta a mi manera para preparar tagliatelle con salsa de jabalí en casa – A receita do meu jeito para preparar tagliatelle com molho de javali em casa – Das Rezept auf meine Art, um Tagliatelle mit Wildschweinsauce zu Hause zuzubereiten – Công thức theo cách của riêng tôi để chuẩn bị tagliatelle với nước sốt lợn rừng tại nhà – 在家里用我自己的方式准备野猪酱意大利面的食谱 – 自宅でワイルドボアソースを使ってタリアテルを作る自分なりのレシピ

15 March 201628 September 2024

Tagliatelle with mushroom sauce, the recipe

Tagliatelle with mushroom sauce.
One of the tastiest and simplest sauces there is: mushroom sauce, this time seasoning a nice plate of tagliatelle.

This is the recipe and Loris' anecdotes:

Dried mushroom sauce.

This sauce, very different from the one made with fresh mushrooms, is part of the inland tradition.
Nowadays you can see tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms on the menus of certain restaurants but, at least in the hinterland of the Riviera di Levante, these are the excellent tagliatelle with dried mushrooms that are part of the old tradition of these parts and are made with the addition of tomato sauce. Therefore, apart from being in mushroom season, if this dish is served without tomato, the mushrooms used are certainly frozen, perhaps with the addition of a few pieces of dried ones to give them a little more aroma.
Years ago I had a friend from Santo Stefano d'Aveto, now deceased, who was a great trader of dried mushrooms and it is difficult to imagine what a large market there is behind this product... I remember that this friend had a refrigerated warehouse where he kept tons of dried mushrooms that came from all over Europe and that he also kept for many months to sell them when the season and the prices were more favorable.
Now many anecdotes related to mushrooms come to mind but I don't want to bore you with these memories of mine. A particular memory is from many years ago when I was in Sicily doing my military service and I had a Calabrian comrade whose family traded in fresh mushrooms. Once, during a short leave, I went with him to his village, Stilo, at a warehouse of his family there were tons of fresh mushrooms that were brought by the locals. The mushrooms were divided by size, quality, type and then treated by wise women who prepared them to be taken to the city and sent to the markets, others were prepared to be put in oil and others were dried. Evidently, in the early seventies, there was not yet the possibility and culture of freezing.

Here, in many restaurants in the first hinterland, excellent dishes of tagliatelle with dried mushrooms (with tomato) are served, as an alternative to the traditional dishes of ravioli with Genoese ragù or pansotti with walnut sauce.

The recipe for making the sauce with dried mushrooms is very simple.
First of all you need good quality mushrooms and it is not essential to choose the most expensive ones but the most fragrant ones. I leave the dried mushrooms to soak for a short time in cold water, which I change after a couple of minutes to eliminate any residue of soil and leaves and replace it with more cold water. Separately I fry in the right amount of extra virgin olive oil a little finely chopped onion, a head of garlic, a lightly chopped rosemary and a couple of bay leaves. I then add the mushrooms soaked in the water and chopped to the soffritto. As soon as the mushrooms have warmed up I bathe them lightly with a little white wine, add the right amount of pureed tomatoes and a little salt. When the sauce begins to brown (it is not a long cooking time) I add, if necessary, a little of the second water in which I soaked the dried mushrooms. At the end, I measure and adjust the salt and add a very finely chopped parsley.

I also like to add a little hot chili pepper to the soffritto.

Photo taken with Canon 600D and lens Canon EF 40.

The recipe for making tagliatelle with mushroom sauce at home – La recette pour faire des tagliatelles à la sauce aux champignons à la maison – La receta para hacer tagliatelle con salsa de champiñones en casa. – A receita para fazer tagliatelle com molho de cogumelos em casa – Das Rezept für die Zubereitung von Tagliatelle mit Pilzsauce zu Hause – Công thức làm tagliatelle sốt nấm tại nhà – 在家制作蘑菇酱意大利面的食谱 – 自宅でマッシュルームソースを使ってタリアテルを作るためのレシピ

14 March 201623 August 2024

Ravioli with walnut sauce: the recipe

Ravioli with walnut sauce: the recipe.
The variation on the more classic pansotti are lean ravioli with walnut sauce. A typical Ligurian dish with an unmistakable taste.

Outside our area I have seen this sauce prepared in many ways but here, or rather, in our coastal hinterland, the walnut sauce is accompanied by the even more classic "pansotti" or "pansoti": vegetable ravioli or ravioloni of different shapes that can be small like ravioli or large and closed like tortelloni but, in any case, prepared with the typical Ligurian low-egg pasta and stuffed with wild herbs, ricotta, eggs and grated cheese.
This pasta was born in Rapallo and its hinterland and then spread throughout the province of Genoa. I have a fond memory of the Valle family who had an old and small restaurant in the Ne' valley, in Frisolino. The grandfather was a wise expert on hunting and his countryside (very well known throughout the valley and in Chiavari). The first son who also helped in the restaurant, the second son a bachelor, a specialist in preparing rabbit, and little Enrico who is now a grown man, married with a family. The pearl of this group of men was Enrico’s mother, wife of the first son, a great cook of the poor and very tasty cuisine of the hinterland. Now that the restaurant no longer exists and that the whole family group is cooking in the valleys of paradise, before talking about the dishes that Mrs. Valle prepared, I can tell you some anecdotes…

English: You couldn’t think of “da Valle” as a real trattoria but rather as a family reunion with other guests/friends and these memories are very vivid because over the years I’ve had all sorts of things: the cutlery was all assorted, like the napkins and it could happen that, like the tablecloths, they were holed or broken but still very clean. Another time, when I had guests, we were greeted by the uncle who prepared the rabbit, sitting on the entrance step, who was putting on his shoes and who, unperturbed, greeted us saying that the rabbit was ready… Between all of them, Enrico aside, they must have had about thirty teeth. The public relations were by the grandfather and the very clever Enrico while the first son waited tables. The greatness of this place consisted in the cuisine, in the poor ingredients, in the parsimony of the oil made in the family but especially in the great mastery of that woman who prepared excellent things with little. The menu was always the same: an appetizer of homemade cold cuts, pansotti with walnut sauce, ravioli with sauce in which you often saw a colombina or another mushroom added to enrich the sauce, roast or cima or mixed fried meat (a little) and vegetables (lots and delicious) and a homemade dessert.

The pansotti were made like ravioli but twice as long and a little wider and the sauce had a scent which is the trick that is never mentioned in its preparation.

Adesso torniamo alla salsa di noci. Per la sua praparazione necessitiamo di buone noci, pane ammollato nel latte e poi strizzato, poco aglio e poi l’aroma finale… a me piace pestare tutto nel mortaio ma si può usare anche il frullatore ad immersione ma poco alla volta per non scaldare la salsa. Io immergo per una trentina di secondi i gherigli nell’acqua bollente e appena tolti li metto subito sotto l’acqua fredda per poi pelarli con maggiore facilità. Intanto strizzo la mollica di pane messa a bagno nel latte e l’aggiungo alle noci, un poco d’aglio senza l’anima interna, poco sale e l’aroma tipico ligure, la erba persa, che a me piace abbondante. Proprio come faceva la signora Valle. Dopo aver pestato bene ed amalgamato il tutto mescolandolo con ottimo olio extravergine d’oliva ligure e la salsa è pronta. A me non piace aggiungere, come fanno in molti, il formaggio grattugiato per insaporire ed allungare la salsa ma allungarla con mezzo cucchiaio d’acqua di cottura e poi ma mettere il formaggio sulla pasta dopo averla servita. Buon appetito!

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Photo taken with Canon 600D and lens Canon EF 40.

Ravioli with walnut sauce: the recipe – Raviolis sauce aux noix : la recette – Ravioli con salsa de nueces: la receta – Ravioli com molho de nozes: a receita – Ravioli mit Walnusssauce: das Rezept – Ravioli với sốt óc chó: công thức – 核桃酱馄饨：食谱 – クルミソースのラビオリ：レシピ

5 March 20167 May 2020

Salsa verde, la ricetta

25 November 201518 April 2020

Spaghetti integrali a modo mio, la ricetta

Spaghetti integrali a modo mio. Per 4 persone. Per questa ricetta uso:

– 320 grammi di pasta integrale
– 1 sacchetto di bottarga di muggine (di solito viene venduta in confezione di due sacchetti che sembrano due bastoncini marroni/rossastri e che sono gli involucri originali delle due sacche di uova contenuti nel pesce
– 1 spicchio d’aglio
– peperoncino secondo i gusti
– olio d’oliva quanto basta
– 2 o 3 pomodorini di pachino per persona
– 2 cucchiai abbondanti di pane grattugiato.

Innanzi tutto, come mi insegnò molti anni fa un grande Chef, faccio tostare il pan grattato nella padella antiaderente asciutta, facendo evaporare la poca umidità che ancora contiene per renderlo più digeribili; poi lo metto da parte. Adesso preparo un fondo facendo soffriggere l’aglio e il peperoncino nell’olio d’oliva aggiungendo poi i pomodorini tagliati in quattro parti e privati dei semi e un poco d’acqua per farli cuocere senza che secchino e senza che l’agio bruci.

A questo punto preparo la bottarga grattugiando una delle due uova e aggiungendola al pane grattugiato e mescolando bene. I pezzetti che rimangono più grandi li aggiungo al fondo dell’olio facendoli semplicemente scaldare ma senza che brucino.

Il lavoro è finito: faccio saltare gli spaghetti cotti al dente nel soffritto, li metto nel piatti da portata e li cospargo con la bottarga grattugiata e mescolata con il pan grattato. Mescolo bene prima di servire.

Enjoy your meal!

10 September 20158 November 2023

Anchovies marinated in lemon: the recipe

Anchovies marinated in lemon: the recipe.
One of the typical dishes of Liguria are anchovies with lemon.

I collected many lemons that the plant in my garden, as usual, abundantly gave me and I saw in my trusted fishmonger some beautiful local anchovies, not very big, but already of an acceptable size and so I prepared the first lemon anchovies of the season.

I want to describe the preparation that I learned many years ago from an almost illiterate lady. A great woman who was a dishwasher to support the whole family and who had a great talent for cooking.

First of all, choose the anchovies which must be very fresh and of a fairly large size.

Then, calmly, after having removed the head from the fish and, with it, the innards or most of them, put the anchovies in a container with a draft of running water and leave them under this draft for at least twelve hours.
Once this operation has been done, you will see that the anchovies will have become white, firm and will have opened slightly to allow you to remove the bones without breaking the meat, leaving the tail attached to the fish.
At this point, to follow current food safety rules, place the fish neatly in a container that you will leave in the freezer for at least 48 hours to permanently eliminate any parasites that they may contain.
Once the required time has passed, I recommend bringing the fish back to a temperature that allows it to be handled by leaving it in the normal refrigerator to avoid thermal shock damaging the delicacy of the meat and then proceed with the preparation. This is also a very delicate operation that must be done with care and precision.

First of all, squeeze a good quantity of lemons and keep a container of fine salt handy and a low container wide enough to contain the anchovies placed in several overlapping layers. Lightly sprinkle the bottom of the container with fine salt and place a layer of anchovies on top. Once this is done, sprinkle with a little more salt and then cover with lemon juice. At this point make another layer of anchovies that you will place, always with great care, one on top of the other, salting again lightly and covering again with lemon... and continue this operation until you have used up all the fish and make sure that the lemon juice covers it completely. Then put the covered container in the refrigerator and leave it there for 24 hours. After 24 hours, take the container and, always very carefully so as not to move the fish, drain the lemon completely and replace it with olive oil.
Sprinkle a little fine oregano on top.
The anchovies are ready.

N.B. I know, this preparation is long and cumbersome and can be shortened a lot; you can use vinegar instead of lemon or do other manipulations but the recipe that I proposed to you is certainly the best that I have ever seen even if it is the longest, most difficult and expensive…

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Anchovies marinated in lemon: the recipe – Anchois marinés au citron : la recette – Anchoas marinadas en limón: la receta – Anchovas marinadas em limão: a receita – In Zitrone marinierte Sardellen: das Rezept – Cá cơm ướp chanh: công thức – 柠檬腌凤尾鱼：食谱 – アンチョビのレモンマリネ：レシピ

26 May 201512 July 2024

Salted Anchovies, the recipe

Anchovies in salt, the recipe.
This morning I prepared a small dish of salted anchovies and later I will explain how I did it. While I was cleaning the anchovies that I put in salt last summer, I remembered the salting operation that my maternal grandfather did while I, as a child, watched him carefully. This is a bit of a long story but if you want to read it I would like to tell it to you... We have to go back a long way in the years, when my grandfather told me these stories. He and his brothers were very young and lived near the waterfall, in Riva Trigoso, in the western area. Life was hard and the shipyards were still in their infancy so the means to survive were really limited: many men went sailing others survived by working as farmers/fishermen because both the land and the sea, alone, did not allow them to survive and people had to adapt by doing both jobs. This is exactly what my grandfather and his brothers, nicknamed the "buluin", did. In the summer, therefore, they devoted themselves to fishing for anchovies that was done near the coast, following the shoals towards the Cinque Terre. The boat was a gozzo with a lateen sail, the net was called “manata” and the fishing was done more or less like today but without the help of the lampara; before leaving, the women prepared the barrels of salt and the fishermen followed the coast fishing and salting, until the barrels were full of anchovies and they could then return home. At night they stopped in the small ports, eating fish with the little they received, exchanging the higher quality fish that remained in the nets for anchovies with biscuits and vegetables, while the wine and oil (and often biscuits too) they brought from home. Thus, out of necessity, many dishes were born that later became typical of our cuisine, the best known of which is the “bagnun”. I can almost see my grandfather when, after removing their heads, he would place a layer of anchovies, head and tail, in the glass jar, alternating them with a thin layer of coarse salt. The meticulousness with which he performed this operation was the guarantee of a quality finished product. After a few months the anchovies were ready to be consumed.

I try to prepare the anchovies like my grandfather did, although I'm not sure if he followed the same procedure: first I carefully remove the fish from the arbanella. Then I try to slowly remove as much salt as possible from the anchovies and wash them lightly with a mixture of vinegar slightly diluted with water, opening them to remove the bones. This operation must also be done carefully, trying not to break the fish. Finally, I remove any small bones or salt residues from the fillets and then I squeeze them to remove the vinegar residues and place them on a plate that I have moistened with extra virgin olive oil. I then sprinkle a little chopped garlic and oregano on the fillets and finally cover them with olive oil again. The dish is ready. Enjoy your meal.

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