Si tratta di una preparazione per lo più semiliquida (zuppa), che i mandriani cucinavano dentro un grande paiolo messo sopra un fuoco alimentato dalla legna all’aperto quando, ad esempio, trasportavano i pregiati bovini grigi di razza podolica (razza bovina dalle lunghe corna) dalla pianura della pusta ai mercati di Moravia, Vienna e Norimberga. Continue and learn more on Wikipedia.
Anchovies marinated in lemon: the recipe. One of the typical dishes of Liguria are anchovies with lemon.
I collected many lemons that the plant in my garden, as usual, abundantly gave me and I saw in my trusted fishmonger some beautiful local anchovies, not very big, but already of an acceptable size and so I prepared the first lemon anchovies of the season.
I want to describe the preparation that I learned many years ago from an almost illiterate lady. A great woman who was a dishwasher to support the whole family and who had a great talent for cooking.
First of all, choose the anchovies which must be very fresh and of a fairly large size.
Then, calmly, after having removed the head from the fish and, with it, the innards or most of them, put the anchovies in a container with a draft of running water and leave them under this draft for at least twelve hours. Once this operation has been done, you will see that the anchovies will have become white, firm and will have opened slightly to allow you to remove the bones without breaking the meat, leaving the tail attached to the fish. At this point, to follow current food safety rules, place the fish neatly in a container that you will leave in the freezer for at least 48 hours to permanently eliminate any parasites that they may contain. Once the required time has passed, I recommend bringing the fish back to a temperature that allows it to be handled by leaving it in the normal refrigerator to avoid thermal shock damaging the delicacy of the meat and then proceed with the preparation. This is also a very delicate operation that must be done with care and precision.
First of all, squeeze a good quantity of lemons and keep a container of fine salt handy and a low container wide enough to contain the anchovies placed in several overlapping layers. Lightly sprinkle the bottom of the container with fine salt and place a layer of anchovies on top. Once this is done, sprinkle with a little more salt and then cover with lemon juice. At this point make another layer of anchovies that you will place, always with great care, one on top of the other, salting again lightly and covering again with lemon... and continue this operation until you have used up all the fish and make sure that the lemon juice covers it completely. Then put the covered container in the refrigerator and leave it there for 24 hours. After 24 hours, take the container and, always very carefully so as not to move the fish, drain the lemon completely and replace it with olive oil. Sprinkle a little fine oregano on top. The anchovies are ready.
N.B. I know, this preparation is long and cumbersome and can be shortened a lot; you can use vinegar instead of lemon or do other manipulations but the recipe that I proposed to you is certainly the best that I have ever seen even if it is the longest, most difficult and expensive…
Have you ever tasted this dish? Add your own comment or go to the bottom of the site to read what other visitors have written.
Anchovies marinated in lemon: the recipe – Anchois marinés au citron : la recette – Anchoas marinadas en limón: la receta – Anchovas marinadas em limão: a receita – In Zitrone marinierte Sardellen: das Rezept – Cá cơm ướp chanh: công thức – 柠檬腌凤尾鱼：食谱 – アンチョビのレモンマリネ：レシピ
Eggs boiled in soy. A classic, walking around the various Asian markets (here in Taiwan) is to see these cauldrons with eggs cooking. Obviously the strange thing is the color... due to the soy sauce. Actually I have read even worse: eggs cooked in lime and with an intense black color which, apparently, are a delicacy...
Do you know Asia? Add your own comment or go to the bottom of the site to read what other visitors have written.
Eggs boiled in soy – Oeufs cuits au soja – Huevos cocidos en soja – Ovos cozidos em soja – In Soja gekochte Eier – Trứng luộc trong đậu nành
Insetti da gustare 3. Ancora prelibatezze thailandesi: insetti fritti, che francamente ho anche difficoltà a riconosvere, dalle bancarelle del mercato notturno di Koh Sumui.
Anchovies in salt, the recipe. This morning I prepared a small dish of salted anchovies and later I will explain how I did it. While I was cleaning the anchovies that I put in salt last summer, I remembered the salting operation that my maternal grandfather did while I, as a child, watched him carefully. This is a bit of a long story but if you want to read it I would like to tell it to you... We have to go back a long way in the years, when my grandfather told me these stories. He and his brothers were very young and lived near the waterfall, in Riva Trigoso, in the western area. Life was hard and the shipyards were still in their infancy so the means to survive were really limited: many men went sailing others survived by working as farmers/fishermen because both the land and the sea, alone, did not allow them to survive and people had to adapt by doing both jobs. This is exactly what my grandfather and his brothers, nicknamed the "buluin", did. In the summer, therefore, they devoted themselves to fishing for anchovies that was done near the coast, following the shoals towards the Cinque Terre. The boat was a gozzo with a lateen sail, the net was called “manata” and the fishing was done more or less like today but without the help of the lampara; before leaving, the women prepared the barrels of salt and the fishermen followed the coast fishing and salting, until the barrels were full of anchovies and they could then return home. At night they stopped in the small ports, eating fish with the little they received, exchanging the higher quality fish that remained in the nets for anchovies with biscuits and vegetables, while the wine and oil (and often biscuits too) they brought from home. Thus, out of necessity, many dishes were born that later became typical of our cuisine, the best known of which is the “bagnun”. I can almost see my grandfather when, after removing their heads, he would place a layer of anchovies, head and tail, in the glass jar, alternating them with a thin layer of coarse salt. The meticulousness with which he performed this operation was the guarantee of a quality finished product. After a few months the anchovies were ready to be consumed.
I try to prepare the anchovies like my grandfather did, although I'm not sure if he followed the same procedure: first I carefully remove the fish from the arbanella. Then I try to slowly remove as much salt as possible from the anchovies and wash them lightly with a mixture of vinegar slightly diluted with water, opening them to remove the bones. This operation must also be done carefully, trying not to break the fish. Finally, I remove any small bones or salt residues from the fillets and then I squeeze them to remove the vinegar residues and place them on a plate that I have moistened with extra virgin olive oil. I then sprinkle a little chopped garlic and oregano on the fillets and finally cover them with olive oil again. The dish is ready. Enjoy your meal.
Do you like salted anchovies? Add a comment or go to the bottom of the site to read what other visitors have written.
Salted anchovies, the recipe to prepare them – Anchois salés, la recette pour les préparer – Anchoas en salazón, la receta para prepararlas – Anchovas salgadas, a receita para prepará-las – Gesalzene Sardellen, das Rezept, um sie zuzubereiten – Cá cơm muối, công thức chế biến chúng – 咸凤尾鱼，准备它们的食谱 – 塩漬けのアンチョビ、それらを準備するためのレシピ
La tipica farinata di ceci della Liguria. Tra le innumerevoli foto di cibo, e tra le molte di piatti tipici liguri (focaccia al formaggio, pesto, ravioli…), mancava una delle regine: la farinata (fainà in dialetto genovese). Giusto stasera, non sapendo cosa mangiare, ho deciso di colmare la mancanza e complice il fatto che abito vicino ad una pizzeria d’asporto (probabilmente qui a Sestri Levante fa la farinata più buona da portare a casa è proprio questa de I Due Gabbiani). Acqua e farina di ceci, con un filo d’olio d’oliva, per un piatto semplice e salutare cotto in un forno a legna in una teglia di rame. In queste foto la farinata è quella semplice ma si può “condire” con stracchino, con gongorzola o, uno sfizio, con bianchetti.
Ti piace la farinata? Aggiungi un comment or go to the bottom of the site to read what other visitors have written.
La farinata di ceci, conosciuta anche come fainè, fainà (in ligure) o cecìna e torta di ceci (in Toscana), è una torta salata molto bassa, preparata con farina di ceci, acqua, sale e olio extravergine di oliva. Si tratta di un piatto tipico della tradizione ligure, dove fu importato nel Medioevo dalla Repubblica Marinara di Genova, grazie ai contatti commerciali col mondo arabo e successivamente si è diffusa anche in altre parti dell’Italia. Continue and learn more on Wikipedia
Farinata is a dish based on chickpea flour typical of Liguria – La farinata est un plat à base de farine de pois chiches typique de la Ligurie – La farinata es un plato a base de harina de garbanzos típico de Liguria – Farinata é um prato à base de farinha de grão de bico típico da Ligúria – Farinata ist ein für Ligurien typisches Gericht auf Basis von Kichererbsenmehl – Farinata là món ăn làm từ bột đậu xanh đặc trưng của Liguria – Farinata 是一道以利古里亚典型的鹰嘴豆粉为基础的菜肴 – ファリナータはリグーリア州特有のひよこ豆粉をベースにした料理です
Gnocchi di patate fatti in casa. Nulla di più buono con il pesto degli gnocchi di patate fatti in casa. Non è difficile la preparazione (magari Loris potrà scrivervela) ma il risultato è veramente il massimo.
Have you ever tasted them? Add a comment or go to the bottom of the site to read what other visitors have written.
Gli gnocchi sono una preparazione di cucina estremamente diffusa in molti paesi del mondo e presentano differenze notevoli da un tipo all’altro sia per forma che per ingredienti. Per semplificare si possono definire come piccoli pezzi di impasto, solitamente di forma tondeggiante, che vengono bolliti in acqua o brodo e quindi conditi con salse varie. In Liguria gli gnocchi al pesto vengono proposti spesso in ristoranti e trattorie al pari delle trofie. Continue and learn more on Wikipedia
Homemade potato gnocchi – Gnocchis de pommes de terre maison – Ñoquis de patata caseros – Gnocchi de batata caseiro – Hausgemachte Kartoffelgnocchi – Gnocchi khoai tây tự làm
Ragù alla ligure con involtini, la ricetta. Oggi desidero descrivervi il ragù alla ligure, il “tuccu”, come viene fatto da sempre in casa mia. Non so se corrisponde esattamente ai canoni della cucina ligure ma è veramente ottimo.
Ingredienti per una bella pentola di sugo
Un bel pezzo di matama’ di manzo di circa 300/350 grammi è un paio di salsicce; una cipolla media tritata; olio d’oliva extra vergine abbondante; mezzo bicchiere di vino rosso, alcuni pezzetti di porcini secchi; una lattina di pomodori pelati e poco concentrato; alloro e rosmarino. Per gli involtini: fettine di vitellone nel magro di spalla; cipolla tritata assieme a prezzemolo, pane grattato e salsiccia. Tagliare le fettine e batterle leggermente fino a far loro raggiungere le dimensionI di cIrca 10 cm x 15 (ma non fate i geometri), racchiudere nel loro interno il battuto degli ingredienti appena descritti, e chiudere bene la carne con una stuzzicadenti.
Preparation
Soffriggete la cipolla nell’olio aggiungete la carne e le salsicce facendole rosolare a fuoco vivace e poi gli involtini. Una volte che la carne sarà ben rosolata, bagnate con il vino, fate evaporare ed aggiungete i funghi secchi, gli aromi, i pomodori pelati passati ed il concentrato. Abbassate il fuoco e controllate il sale tenendo conto che la salsiccia è salata. Fate cuocere a fuoco basso per circa un’ora e poi tritate due terzi della carne e aggiungetela, continuando la cottura per un’altra oretta. A casa nostra con il ragù condiamo la pasta e nei giorni successivi serviamo gli involtini con poco sugo e riso pilaf. Questo tipo di accompagnamento degli involtini non è tipico ligure ma è stato introdotto in casa nostra da mia moglie Emma, che è un’ottima cuoca ma che ogni tanto inserisce nei suoi piatti piccoli ricordi della cucina delle sua originip Svizzere e che che ormai fanno parte delle nostre abitudini. Provare per credere. Se non sapete, in altra occasione vi descriverò il riso pilaf, o pilaff o pilaw…
Ligurian meat sauce with rolls, the recipe – Sauce à la viande ligure avec petits pains, la recette – Salsa de carne de Liguria con panecillos, la receta – Molho de carne da Ligúria com pãezinhos, a receita – Ligurische Fleischsauce mit Brötchen, das Rezept – Nước sốt thịt Ligurian với cuộn, công thức – 利古里亚肉酱卷，食谱 – リグーリア風ミートソースロール添え、レシピ
Anchovies with peas, the recipe. This morning I found, in the Leripesca shop in Sestri Levante, some beautiful local anchovies and some childhood memories came back to me. The anchovy, for me, is the princess of the kingdom of blue fish, in turn on the pedestal among the products of the sea. The anchovy can be prepared in a thousand ways, both cooked and raw (in this case after 96 hours in the freezer); the local one is seasonal but it is in the month of May, when the water is still fresh, that it is the right size and that for me lends itself best to the preparation with peas, also seasonal. Once again I do not know if the recipe I am about to describe is the true Ligurian one but it is the one that an aunt of mine used to prepare, considered the most thrifty among the very thrifty women in my maternal family. As a child I often went to this aunt of mine, the wife of a brother of my grandmother who, like the whole family, lived in the first hinterland where the fishmongers came with the cart and the boxes of blue fish caught during the night and who called the women to sell them the very fresh catch. At this moment I smile because I think of my aunt, a beautiful woman, tall, thin with wavy blond hair and very clear blue eyes, who died at 96 years old... My aunt went to buy anchovies for the family, composed of four adults but she did not ask for a weight, like half a kilo, but a number, no more than 15/16 depending on the size. To the anchovies she added so abundant peas from the garden and pieces of dry bread, saved from the little that was left over and that was usually part of the mash for the chickens. Here is the very simple recipe for 4 people:
About 800 grams of anchovies, 300 grams of fresh peas, shelled, a little tomato paste, half an onion, a clove of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, a few tablespoons of white wine.
Separately, lightly cook the peas in boiling salted water. In a low pot, preferably terracotta, fry the chopped onion and garlic in oil, add a little wine and add the concentrate, diluting with a little of the pea cooking water. After a few minutes, when the base is well blended, add the peas and cook and blend this base well. Taste if salt is needed. At this point, when the base is very hot, add the anchovies and immediately cover the pot with a lid. Leave to cook for a few minutes and serve immediately with croutons. I use wholemeal bread from the Vassallo bakery in Sestri Levante…
Why do we use tomato paste? Once upon a time, tomatoes only grew in the summer and, towards the end of this season, bottles were prepared at home with the sauce and the paste that was used in the most daring preparations.
This is the preparation:
This is the final dish:
Anchovies with peas, the recipe – Anchois aux petits pois, la recette – Anchoas con guisantes, la receta – Anchovas com ervilhas, a receita – Sardellen mit Erbsen, das Rezept – Cá cơm với đậu Hà Lan, công thức – 豌豆凤尾鱼，食谱 – エンドウ豆とアンチョビ、レシピ
A whole octopus cooked Ligurian style. A trip to Monterosso the day before yesterday and an unmissable dinner at Osteria. I don't think I've ever eaten the Ligurian octopus appetizer there, one of the classics of my land, so here it is served and photographed. Boiled octopus, boiled potatoes, olives and tomatoes; all sprinkled with olive oil and parsley. Excellent!
Do you like octopus? Add your own comment or go to the bottom of the site to read what other visitors have written.
The common octopus or octopus, also called polyp is a cephalopod mollusk of the Octopodidae family. Often, especially in literature, the octopus is referred to using the word polyp, but the zoologically correct name is octopus, as polyps are instead the fixed life stages of animals belonging to the phylum Cnidaria or corals. Continue and learn more on Wikipedia
A whole octopus cooked Ligurian style – Un poulpe entier cuit à la ligure – Un pulpo entero cocinado al estilo de Liguria – Um polvo inteiro cozinhado ao estilo da Ligúria – Ein ganzer Oktopus nach ligurischer Art zubereitet – Bạch tuộc nguyên con nấu theo phong cách Ligurian
